Looking down on the rear of the Mount Body, align it with the sides of the receiver so it is centered over the barrel.Snug down the top screw holding the Mount Body and Barrel Clamp together, using the hex wrench provided.DO NOT snug these screws down yet! (figure 4) Insert the two 8-32 flat-head socket screws through the holes in the top of the Mount Body and start them into the threaded holes in the top of the Barrel Clamp and the Dovetail Nut.Set the Mount Body on top of the barrel so that it fits over the Barrel Clamp and the Dovetail Nut.Set the rifle upright on the table and slide the Dovetail Nut into the dovetail notch in the barrel where the rear sight had been.DO NOT snug this screw down yet! (figure 2) Insert the 8-32 Cap head screw through the flange of the Barrel Clamp and start it into the threaded side of the flange. Slide the new Barrel Clamp over the rifle barrel and the front of the carbine stock to the position where the original barrel band had been.Use a small hammer to tap the punch and push the rear sight from the dovetail notch in the barrel. Position a small brass or plastic punch against the base of the rear sight. Use a towel or pad to protect the stock from scratching. Place the rifle on its side on a flat and sturdy table or bench surface.Loosen the cross-screw in the original barrel band, and take off the barrel band toward the front.STEP #2 REMOVE THE REAR SIGHT & BARREL CLAMP Work the bolt handle several times and check the chamber AGAIN.PULL the operating rod completely to the REAR and CHECK the chamber.REMOVE the magazine completely and set it aside.NEVER let the muzzle point at anything you are not willing destroy.BE POSITIVE THAT YOUR RIFLE IS NOT LOADED If accuracy improves, I'll probably come up with a shim to create a more permanent fix than a piece of tape.View and Print PDF STEP #1. Inserting an M2 round into the muzzle indicates plenty of remaining barrel life. I have the bayonet-lug barrel band, which is supposed to be the best for accuracy. Wrapping a piece of duct tape around the Recoil Plate lifted the barrel clear. I went to the CMP site and read through what they had on Carbine accuracy, and focused on the fit of the rear Recoil Plate to the receiver the barreled action should "hang" on the Recoil Plate, with the barrel 1/4" (or so) clear of the tip of the fore end. If the gun is stringing vertically, all I'd be doing with a front sight change is moving the string around, so I'm going to try to get consistent, round(ish) groups before trying to move the group if I could get it to 1"x2" at 50 yards, I'd be satisfied. My aiming point is seven inches below the center of the bulI, the bottom edge of the target.
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March 2023
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